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A network of memes,
by Chris Snyder

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Always beloved as the place that had more lox than the Panama Canal, Barney Greengrass was a primordial fixture of the quondam mythical kingdom of the Upper West Side. These days it is more than just a remnant, though, being a significant caravanserai on the Silk Route leading to Zabar’s, Fairway and Citarella.
— A centenary ode to the Sturgeon King by Glenn Collins, NYT.